Tuesday, October 05, 2010

Uttar Pradesh - Agra

The Taj Mahal

"Not architecture! As all others are
But the proud passion of an emperor's love
Wrought into living stone, which gleams and soars
With body of beauty, shining soul and thought as when some face
Divinely fair unveils before your eyes
Some women beautiful unspeakably
And the blood quickens and the spirit leaps
And the will to worship bends the half yielded knees
While breath forgets to breathe
So is the Taj"
                                Sir Edwin Arnold

There are few (if any) as magic and beautiful places on earth as the Taj Mahal. It is a place that no picture does just, its magnificence can not be captured by any video footage. It is not one of those places that you say "yeah it is just like on the pictures", being there is so much different that I can not emphasize enough.

The "entrance" itself might qualify alone as one of the most beautiful buildings we've seen

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but it is the moment of the Taj appearing as you cross the arch of its gate is that can not be described with words (clik here for a video of a humble attempt to capture this moment at sunrise).

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Still we will attempt to give back a little of the experience through our words and photos...

We visited the Taj for the first time in full daylight at about noon, when the sun came almost from above, the Taj appearing white at this time of the day:

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The elegance of the setting with the pool which reflects the Taj is just as staggering
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as the attention to detail. For example the 4 minarets tilt outwards (calculated and on purpose unlike some famous leaning...) so that in case of an earthquake they don't fall on the Taj or that size of the letters increases towards the top, so that they appear to be the same size for the reader below and lets not forget that all the inlays are precious stones (like onix for black and sapphire for red and green, etc) which sparkle in the sunlight:
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The atmosphere was something completely magical, no sign of loud crowds, just everybody admiring the unique beauty:
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or trying to pick up the Taj and taking it home...
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We loved the Taj so much that we decided to wake up very early the next morning and see it again during sunrise.
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What is probably the most fascinating about the Taj is that it is never the same, it changes its color with the sun. That is why sunrise was a particularly special moment:
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It feels like the Taj is alive:
- it sleeps at night to be awaken by the first ray of sunshine:
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- and quickly awake without any sign of being tired
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- so as to shine with its glory for just another day
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As difficult it was, at some point we had to say goodbye to the Taj with an attempt to take a piece of its magic with us in our heart...

Here is the quick history lesson for those interested in the story of the Taj:

Shah Jahan, the fifth Mughal emperor was in love with Mumtaz Mahal however his father did not approve the relationship as she was not of royal blood. Shah Jahan being a smart guy, married the woman his father chose, whereupon he soon took over as emperor. His wife died several years later (not clear on how but guides obviously say it was of natural circumstances) and he promptly married Mumtaz.

Fast forward a bit ... in child-birth for the fourteenth time Mumtaz dies and Shah Jahan, ignoring his political duties, decides to build the Taj Mahal as a memorial to his wife. It takes 20,000 Persian workman 22 years to complete the amazing building and rumors say, upon completion, he had the right hand of the master mason cut off so it could never be replicated.

Fast forward again ... Aurangzeb, third son of Shah Jahan, kills his brothers so that he can take the thrown. Meanwhile, having completed the Taj Mahal, Shah Jahan plans to build himself his own Black Taj Mahal mausoleum across the river, which however was never completed since his own son imprisoned him at the Agra Red Fort. Nice kid!
Eventually, when Shah Jahan died, he was entombed at the Taj.

Speaking of Agra Fort, it's definitely also worth a visit...

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The "Red Fort" is actually a fortified castle, which was built by Akbar (Shah Jahan’s Grandfather) and then added to by both Shah Jahan and Aurangzeb, his son. Akbar’s constructions were ususally made in red sandstone (see also our next blog entry on Fatehpur Sikri), while Shah Jahan was the first to bring in white marble in the Indian construction. The Agra Fort complex is a marvellous combination of both, with obvious attention to details.

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Supposedly, Akbar had three wives housed here, one Hindu, one Muslim and one Christian, as well as several hundered of concubines, all housed in the buildings here.
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Maharaja Shah Jahan was ultimately placed under house arrest in the fort by his son, Aurangzeb after he seized power and decided that all the spending on dad’s obsession with the Black Taj was enough. Shah Jahan spent the rest of his life in a white marble pavillion

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with a view of the Taj Mahal across the plains. Finally from here Gulliver could also get a picture with the Taj Mahal (as he was not allowed the Taj complex... after all, he does look like a terrorist with a bomb hidden in his belly, doesn't he?)

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All our photos from Uttar Pradesh

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